Italian luxury costume has a new face: that of Columbia Brendan Mullane, who signed for the 2013-2014 winter his first collection as creative director at Brioni. The arrival of this unknown designer in the workshops of the brand has gone smoothly: the appointments of artistic masculine lines are always less dramatic than in the world of hyper-fashionable woman.With a resume that is the Who's Who of Luxury (he officiated at Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Alexander McQueen before taking the head of the studio man at Givenchy), Brendan Mullane is armed to lead the creation of a house renowned for its tailor shop.
His neck cashmere coats, mink jackets crocodile or its fur shaved his costumes right proportions, its simple and modern colorama, mind scrambling home just right.
AVOID THE TEMPTATION OF EXPERIMENTAL
Even if it is passed by claws very creative style, the designer avoid the temptation of experimental incompatible with the timeless spirit of the house. However, it does not prohibit innovations, such as the mini-collection of gold cufflinks handmade in collaboration with Fredrikson Stallard, London design firm avant-garde.
With Brendan Mullane, Brioni opted for revolution in homeopathic doses. But this Italian institution born in 1945 in Penne, a small town in Abruzzo, has never functioned bang. She has made a name - and customers - in the post-war with its luxurious suits cut in the finest materials. Wealthy Americans, the All-Hollywood, businessmen and state then took the habit of ordering their costumes at Brioni, the Rolls-Royce of the tailor, settled in Rome. Brioni was even a time the official tailor of James Bond.
Cultivating his studio work and its traditions, the house went to open a school in Penne to continue training its artisans and perpetuate its know-how to a fashion house of luxury confidential.
"We call Brendan Mullane to rejuvenate the brand and make it desirable from a younger clientele, says Francesco Pesci, President of Brioni. Input end of 2011 in the lap of luxury group PPR, the brand intends expand its network of stores. During times of crisis, are the houses that combine heritage and know-how that fared best.
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