Corsetry and high quality "made in France" he will be the cure for the crisis in the French market for lingerie? This is certainly bet on new brands launched an assault from this sector, whose sales fell 2.2% in 2012, totaling 2.6 billion euros, according to Provisional figures established by the French Fashion Institute (IFM).
So far, the market for bras, panties and other baby dolls were relatively resilient in the economic downturn, unlike fashion, which in 2013 should acknowledge its sixth year of consecutive decline. While clothing has won 10% between 2007 and 2011, the lingerie, she has limited its drop to 2.3% over the same period, thanks to more frequent renewals of products, said Nathalie GENNERAT, responsible for lingeries studies of IFM.
Yet, despite the vagaries of the economy, many new brands have recently launched into the adventure as The Candles, Midnight Twelve Barazandeh or betting on the high end, like the fashion market, largely resistant to the crisis. "New entrants to the luxury positioning, creative content and high added value," says Taya Reynies, director of the division lingerie Ecovet, organizer of the International Exhibition of lingerie, which will be held in Paris from 19 January 21.
SPECIAL HEX
The most recent of these labels, Monette, was launched in August 2012 by Assya Hiridjee (co-founder of lingerie brand Princesse Tam Tam) thanks to the recovery of a plant Lejaby in Bourg-en-Bresse - closed in 2010 - and a dozen of his workers. The brand positioned at the top end (150 euros for a bra) sold 25,000 pieces from his first collection and aims to employ 50 people within two years. "I think there is room for a laundry creative, modern, fits in with the fashion trends and is based on a true knowledge of women very experienced," said the founder of the society.
The brand offers products primarily in stretch silk and matt, machine washable, combining sophistication and femininity. It can rely on the specificity of the French market in France, women spend more money to their underwear as their European neighbors. "There is a culture of lingerie quite specific. Marks are very numerous and very knowledgeable clients," said Nathalie GENNERAT. "Made in France" is creative, Assya Hiridjee for a "real niche to export, provided that the quality is impeccable." Monette is already in discussions "very advanced" to sell outside the Hexagon, she said.
Last year in France, the average annual budget dedicated to lingerie fell to 97 euros, against 99.7 euros in 2011 and only 79 euros in other European countries. The level of expenditure is largely affected by the weight of the mass distribution, which flows almost 50% of total sales of lingerie at prices much lower (15-20 euros for a bra) than brands sold in multibrand stores or department stores (60-100 euros). In addition, clients of research panels are rarely those of luxury that meet less frequently investigated.
The importance of e-commerce - which accounts for 13% of sales in the sector - also contributes to lowering the average budget spending, crossed through prices offered by the sites. Standardization of sizes and confidentiality are attracting more and more buyers on the Internet.
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