Like a good novel, a good collection needs a spine. A theme that gives body to the inspiration. The formatting is all the more crucial when it comes to fashion: the profusion of tools and techniques available makes it easy dispersion. In the preparatory phase, the idea grew and grew.
In the studio, it materializes in the form of "moodboard" a table collecting images that inspire imagination of the creator, a kind of stylistic herbarium. It is this interpretation of the theme stand couturiers: They get away with ease, avoid laborious literal quotation.
Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, the duo who officiates at Valentino's, master the art of hindsight. On the theme of the garden already met with Christian Dior and Chanel, they offer original variation, in line with their style. The dresses have a poetic quality, atmospheric. The cape "aviary", adorned with foliage in silk cords (or rat-tail in technical terms), is a suggestive wink but almost abstract. We guess the cage, we imagine birds. Plans for a French garden, embroidered on a skirt, a dress embossed virgin blend into the folds of tissue.
The collection is as follows impressionist journey. The lace and lace Chantilly, inlaid sequins, crystals or pearl are delicately placed on large vaporous dresses with pleated careful, they evoke in turn the soft light of a spring afternoon, a crowd tuberose and gardenia, an ark of hollyhocks, without any of these buttons appears conspicuously. The program show, notes footer sobering mathematical couture: 480 meters of muslin were necessary to achieve a skirt up to 2500 hours of embroidery in gold thread and silver dress for a dress evanescent. That also does not jump to the eyes, the beauty of the result eludes the rest.
MULTICULTURAL PARTY
Jean Paul Gaultier, towards India, territory and new fantasies paradise of luxury western. In the hall of the parade, each sector has a name evoking the local cuisine: Naan, Tikka Massala, etc.. It is feared the indigestible Bollywood remake. A wrong. The designer injects an optimal dose of ethnic references in his repertoire. Large colorful skirts are cut like sleeves and are worn with structured jackets patchwork of reptile or sports jackets back seam bare; clusters of jewels evoke both the rock scene that merchants stone of New Delhi. Lamé embroidery on a black background are more glamorous ornamental, large graphic stripes draw a silhouette as urban exotic. The final recalls that the designer has a sense of humor: a quartet of Indian girls in dresses shimmering raising escapes wedding dress hoops. Their joy is contagious and multicultural successful bet.
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